Friday, June 4, 2010

Day 15: WWHCMD (What Would Ho Chih Minh Do?)

Today we started late while trying to figure out our plans for the rest of Vietnam. We started with the War Remnants Museum (formerly called the Museum of American War Crimes) detailing Vietnam's wars for total independence. It was interesting to see the war from the Vietnamese perspective. Signs were often very biased, however the top floor included a section describing international resistance to the war effort (especially the Anti-War movement in the U.S.). This seems to reflect the changing relationship between the U.S. and Vietnam over the past few decades.

Around noon the museum closed and we found a cozy little place to eat some pho (Vietnamese beef and noodles). The decoration was very cute with walls painted in 3D!!!

Next we traveled to Independence Palace. Here the Vietnam War officially ended with North Vietnamese tanks driving through the gates of the compound. The building was formerly the Presidential HQ of South Vietnam.

More museums! This time, history museum. It was split up through various periods of Vietnamese history. We found the introduction posters to be quite humorous. Each redefined history with a slant of the Communist Party. We saw a traditional water puppet show with flipping babies.

Believe it or not, after this action packed day we hopped on a plane and taxi to Hoi An, Vietnam (halfway up the country), found our hotel, and collapsed on our rock hard mattresses.

Day 14: Happy Birthday Caya!

Fortunately, Ho Chi Minh City got much better the second day. We ate breakfast and switched to a better hotel. Today we focused our learning on religion in HCMC (Ho Chi Minh City). We visited a huge Hindu Temple, the Jade Emperor Pagoda, and the Saigon Mosque.



Hindu Temple: Brilliantly painted and very bustling. Many Vietnamese Hindus were worshiping at the temple and offering up incense, oil, and lavender flowers to the gods. We may have been involved in a possible incense scandal. Oooh, scandalous!



Jade Emperor Pagoda: Can you say incense? We can. Every person in the temple had a fistful of incense sticks, and believe us, there were over a hundred people in the Pagoda. Each room of the pagoda was packed with worshipers. This is an active religious location complete with ponds, multiple floors and monks performing rituals. People were putting so many incense sticks in some of the pots that every few minutes the pot had to be emptied. Despite our burning eyes and ash covered skin, the experience of visiting this active temple was worth it.



Saigon Mosque: We were confused at the washing rituals at first, but after engaging in conversation with a few knowledgeable Muslim men, we learned a lot. It was interesting to learn about Islam from the perspective of not only a Muslim, but one that was engaged in helping us. Elliot and Sean saw the Mosque's imam, and everyone got a picture with a potentially crazy "brother". A worshiper singing Lionel Richie... Ohh. It was interesting.


That night following our religious exploration we went out for dinner for Caya's birthday at Le Jardin, a french restaurant in the French Culture Center, removed from the lights and noise of the city street. Afterwards we went out for ice cream and relaxed with it while watched Scrubs in the guy's room.

Day 13: The Wheels on the Bus...

Today we left at six in the morning for a busride to Vietnam! The bus ride from Siem Reap included a return trip to Phnom Penh (Home sweet Home!), Plenty of KTV, and Sean's border incident. (No worries, just a smudged stamp thanks to the Vietnamese Govt.) We finally arrived in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).

At first we hated the city. Maybe we were grumpy due to the 12 hour bus ride, or hungry because it was way passed dinner, or our not so nice hotel ammenities, or we were just entering Stage 3 of Culture Shock. We were just not very happy with Vietnam, but after a mediocre dinner at a Chinese Buffet, we found our way back through the busy city of Saigon and to our hotel. Hotel Indochine. Ew.

Day 12: Manelli's Downfall

Let's just go back for a second to remind you all about our contest. We're trying to see who can last the longest without getting sick. Elliot was out on day 2 with heat exhaustion, Sean was day 4, Sharon was day 6 and so sort-of was Liza, illness was rampant but the name of the game was if you got sick, you were a loser.

Today, Liza lost again. We weren't really sure what did it, but something definitely did. (Probably the red peppers in her omelette)

Back to the story, we finally decided to get down to some real educational business. By that, we mean taking our readings with us to go get foot massages. It kind of worked for a while, until the head massages took over. We talked about ethnography and the effects of tourism in Cambodia, clearly relevant to our experience in the field. After our massages Helen gave us an assignment to explore funding for NGOs through international benefactors versus reliance on tourism.

We started, and finished thanks to Liza, at CONCert, an NGO working to connect tourists with local NGOs. It was a win-win set-up, pairing ability with need. They had 25 different organizations under their headline, all unique. There were some working to save wildlife and the environment, some cleaning up land mines and dealing with the consequences of them, and lots that helped children and worked to further health care and education. We talked with the head of the company, both the founder of CONCert and the director, Michael Horton. He was a real British gentleman, interupting our conversation for a cup of tea. Extremely knowledgeable, obviously, he told us all about their goals and hopes for the country. One point of interest that we talked about was the simbiotic relationship CONCert has with hotels in the area, bringing in people who want to look beyond the tourist facade of the town to get involved. If you're ever in the area, give it a try.

Moving outside into the heat we realized returning to the hotel and the airconditioned bed was necessary and cut our exploration a bit short. By two o'clock we had lost Helen and Susan to a villiage outside of the city limits, Liza to bed, and Sean to Scooby Doo antics, so Elliot and Caya left to try some of the exotic cuisine available in the Old Market. They had kangaroo. It was tender and delicious and cooked right at the table. Returning to the hotel and reuniting with everyone except Liza, we spent a while in the rooftop pool and then went out for dinner at a Khmer joint nearby followed by excellent full body massages for Helen, Caya, and Elliot.

Day 11: No Sunrise or Sunset, but Still Scorching Hot

Today we decided to get up early to see the sunrise at Bayon. After accidentally leaving Helen behind and dealing with a tuk tuk driver who refused to go quicker than about 5mph and wouldn't bring us to Bayon, the sunrise at Angkor Wat made up for it. Oh wait, it was totally cloudy and not worth it. We bascially just watched the sky get lighter. We did get coffee though, and saw this really mysterious squirrel-like animal that was actually some guy's pet? Elliot wants one.



Joining back up with Helen and Susan, we expanded our NGO research by going to Angkor Artisans, a silk-weaving program. It was based on the expansive tourism in Siem Reap and it was very interesting to learn about the process and was a really nice facility, but when we looked a bit closer it got a bit sketchy. Apparently the actual factories are 8 hours away and they were very unclear in a lot of the behind-the-scenes information.



Next up we visited a local potter, a woman trying to revive the old pottery traditions of the area. Pottery there is traditionally a woman's trade and as an art is starting to die out. She made some really beautiful stuff, everything from Buddha heads to copies of the carvings on the many temples around, to modern pots and the like. She had a recreation of an ancient kiln as well as a very modern one, mixing the traditional with her passion for the craft and its propulsion into the future.



After that we went to Sala Bai for lunch, another NGO. This one is 1/3 hotel, 1/3 restaurant, and 1/3 trade school for underprivledged youth. They use the facilities to train them and familiarize them in the industries that they will go into. Our waiter was terrified and probably not literate, but it was a good experience and definitely beneficial to the community, and we got an excellent meal out of it (minus the gross baby shrimps they hid in everything.)

We took a little break and then decided to try again for the sunset at Bayon. This time with everyone there and a much better tuk tuk driver, we managed to get there. However, it was raining. It wasn't that bad, though. Most people left so it was nice and quiet, plus we all love storms. We explored the temple, Elliot and Liza managing to get the highest in one of the towers, higher than most people venture...

That night Sean disappeared for a full body massage, the adults walked around and got a movie, and Elliot, Liza, and Caya explored the Old Market area again. They got flagged down by some girls who were a bit tipsy, attempting to help the restaurant they were in and frequent, to the extent that they have a drink named after them on the menu. We decided to eat there and were sat literally at their table. It was great though, it turned out that they were travelers who decided to stay after visiting and worked for an NGO called New Hope. It's a whole community of services working to help the areas right outside of the touristy center of Siem Reap, they have a school, some trade training, and a clinic, which was where the girls, Susan and Tracy worked. Dinner was great and extremely cheap, making the whole thing so much fun.

Reconviening as a group, we lounged in Helen's room and watched Casablanca. We have no idea why it took us so long to see it, it was great.

Day 10: Siem Reap, Siem Temples

Today was our first day in Siem Reap. We finally reunited with Helen and her friend/Scott's sister, Susan. (We interrupt this blog to say how much we miss Sharon. We miss her so much, Elliot keeps calling Susan, Sharon.) After breakfast, our group of 6 explored the temples of Angkor Wat. The Angkor Wat literally means Temple City. There were many temples in the area, but we visited 3 particular temples. Our guide, Lee, was very knowledgeable.



Angkor Wat: This is the most famous temple in Cambodia. It's image is EVERYWHERE: flag, money, signs, t shirts, etc. It definitely earned it's reputation. The temple was amazing, had 2 libaries, 2 ponds, 5 major towers, and stone carvings depicting Hindu and Buddhist mythology. There were over 1000 Apsara dancers carved into the walls. There is a regulation where no building in Siem Reap can be taller than the middle tower of Angkor Wat. This gives Siem reap a very small town, but extremely touristy feel.



Ta Prahm: The Tomb Raider temple! This temple has been taken over by nature. Trees growing through, on, around, and under the building blocks of this temple. It's very beautiful and kind of eerie. There is a dinosaur carved into the wall along with other animals and religious depictions... (Ancient Alien theory!) This temple was under major reconstruction by the Indian Government, and there were far less tourists present. It was a very peaceful and quiet area.



Bayon: Our favorite temple! Bayon has dozens of Buddha's faces in the form of towers with each tower having the Four Faces of Buddha: Charity, Compassion, Sympathy, and Equinimity. There were multiple levels to this temple. This was unique from the others because there were few limits and restrictions on exploring the temple. As long as a visitor is polite and non-destructive, exploration is encouraged. All of us got blessings at a shrine in the center of the temple from a monk. This was the most majestic temple (in Elliot's opinion)



For dinner we ate in the Old Market area of Siem Reap. This is a series of alleys with mainly Western-run restaurants all having the bright cambodian feel. We had Eucalyptus towels for the first time! Often before meals the restaurant will give you cold towels to wipe your face and hands. These were scented with Eucalyptus oil and were very appreciated. Remember, it's still blazing hot outside. We loved the pool on top of the Terrace des Elephants. Helen is going to decorate her garden like it. Welcome to Paradise.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Day 8- Location: Middle of Nowhere

Don't worry about the missed days, we will go back and blog about them, too. But for now...

So, the students have braved a venture this weekend to Chi Phat, which is an eco-tourism village in the South Cardamom Mountains. The village promotes alternative ways to make a living that do not damage the environment. (ie, lots of farming, no logging) It's very primitive compared to Phnom Penh, or anywhere we have been.

Here's the DL:
1. Electricity is only available after 6PM
2. Luxurious Guest Houses are wooden rooms with bed and mosquito nets. Maybe fans...
3. No modern bath amenities. Shower is basically a bucket and this weird hole filled with water. Where is the toilet paper? Where is the flusher?
4. Bugs bugs bugs!
5. Biking and walking has made us so dirty we almost pass as Cambodians. So how about that shower...
6. We went to see the waterfall this afternoon, except oh wait. It's the dry season. It was a rock with a pond at the bottom.
7. We walked our bikes up a hill to see the sunset. Wait, it wasn't really setting, and there was an internet tower in the way. (We are actually thankful for the tower, so we are able to update the blog!)
8. It's hot and we are all sweaty. We got here and passed out on our beds for 2 hours because it was so hot.
9. Amusement here seems to be watching wrestling on community tvs, playing pool, and sweating. (wait, sweating is just us)
10. Everyone is so friendly and loves to say "Hello!"

Despite how bitter this sounds, it's a really interesting experience that none of us has had. We're all enjoying it and are excited about tomorrow's "birdwatching at sunrise boat trip Extravaganza!"
The moto trip over to Chi Phat was the bomb! Wind blowing in your face and hair, beautiful Cambodian countryside and the occasional tiger attack made this a perfect mid-afternoon journey. (Just kidding, there was actually no tiger attack, but wouldn't that have been exciting!)

PS. The food here is really good and the water seems to be safe. We had french fries for lunch. Best ones in Cambodia. (Helen, you missed out, big time.)

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Day 4: Bee-aah and How to fit an Ancient Wheelchair in the Kitchen

WE started off today with a Cambodian Cooking Class. We met some great people, see list of friends in earlier post, and learned to make vegetable spring rollls and fish amok on a rooftop. Jenny, our instructor, started the class by taking us on a field trip to the nearby market to buy some ingredients and learn about the local cuisine and native foods. We learned about/tasted different fruits, seeds, fish, etc. Some of the stuff, namely fruits and spices, were imported from different surrounding countries like Vietnam and Laos. We learned that Thai food is actually largely based on Cambodian food, but is more spicy. Apples and grapes were imported from farther away, Europe or the US and were therefore more expensive. We stuck to rambutan and something else we can't remember the name, and even tried spicy lotus seeds.

We eventually made our way back to the kitchen in the sky up two twisty and steep flights of stairs to a view overlooking the city and surrounding tile tops. Sharon was suffering from an infected blister which was a huge problem but we made it work. She was a trooper. She was a super trooper. We made vegetarian spring rolls filled with tarrow and carrots which took literally forever to shred. We made a spicy ginger-chili-fish sauce to go with them that was so good Helen might have just drank it straight. Not really. Well, maybe. Then after enjoying our appetizers we made fish amok. We mixed diced lime skin, garlic, shallots, chilis, lemon grass, more chilis, some Cambodian spices, tumeric that wasn't ginger but looked like it, coconut creme, fish sauce, shrimp paste (yummy), and cane sugar. We had to use a mortar and pestle to turn it into mush in order to make the sauce that we used on the tiger fish. Jenny showed us how to heat banana leaves (and burn ourselves) to make them flexible which we then used to make little banana boats/boxes/containers for the food. Basically, you throw everything in the banana boat and steam it. Eaten with a platefull of rice it was a great lunch. By the end of the cooking class, we all feel semi-confident that we could make passable Khmer food. Even better than yo grannie's cookin.

At this point, Sharon's blister was the size of Cambodia's largest hill, and we had to tuktuk to the National Museum. Walking was not an option, so we eventually figured out the Cambodian word for wheelchair. Just kidding! It was too hard to learn, but we found a wheelchair for Sharon. They staff pulled it out of the basement and it had probably been around since before the Khmer Rouge. (Hey, at least it worked and squeaked loudly!) PS. Caya drives the wheelchair better than Elliot, who hit people with it. The museum offered a great chance for us to learn about pre-Angkor period religion and art. Cambodia was influenced majorly by Hinduism prior to the Angkor period (1100ish). There were many lingas and Shiva statues (Siva). Cambodian art didnt really depict Brahman, but the trio was presented as Vishnu, Siva, and Lakshmi (Goddess). After the Angkor period there was a surge in Buddhist art (Naga, the Buddha, Bodhisattvas, etc). These statues were really fascinating. We also saw some pictures from Siem Reap and are excited to go in a few days. We met Alan (see friend post) and were able to move Sharon (in wheelchair) up and down stairs. WOAH!

That night the students went to the FCC (Foreign Correspondent's Club and ordered pizza. Sharon was sleeping after her long day and didn't attend. The end!

The National Museum and the ancient wheelchair

Friends in Phnom Penh

This will be a running list of friends we've met and acquaintences we have made here in Phnom Penh.

Makara- Tuktuk driver and translator extraordinaire!
Scott- Helen's travel-channel-ready friend who spent the first few days with us as our trip photographer. He sounds like Steve Martin and wears signature 'Scott-scarves'.
Namenday (Namy)- Makara's brother and another tuktuk driver
Dr. Fish- Actually not a doctor, but you know him by now. (See earlier post)
Anise breakfast waiter- We taught him to twirl pens. This guy is so nice and overly-apologetic. He knows our orders by heart.
Georgina/John Cena- Georgina is from New Zealand but was traveling in SE Asia and ended up working at SOC for a few months. The kids can't pronounce her name and call her John Cena (after the wrestler) (hysterical).
Children at Sunflower Orphan Centre-We've explained them in an earlier post
Jenny- Master chef: she teaches the Cambodian Cooking Class.
Andrew- This Aussie joined us for Cambodian Cooking Class. He has been traveling in the region for a while. Pronounces beer in a pleasant sounding way.
Calvin and Lida- Calvin was born in Vietnam but moved to Boston and has lived there for most of his life. He works in Vietnam now as a doctor but is traveling with his Cambodian girlfriend Lida, who is secretly a master chef on par with Jenny. Both of them were in our Cambodian Cooking Class.
Alan- Our British friend from the National Museum. He's traveling on his own after quitting his job in the area. He suggested we go to Sihanoukville where he had worked and lounged for a week previously. He suggested we meet up with the legend...
Tiger- "The Legend of Sihanoukville". Tiger is a "huge Aussie guy with ginger dreads" "He'll take care of you" We might never get to actually meet him, but we can pretend!
Tida and Caden- Tida grew up on the Thai/Cambodian border but grew up in the US and just graduated from Clark University. Unable to find work she turned to a top level political uncle who found her work editing the Newspaper at the University of Cambodia. She lives here in Phnom Penh with her 2 year old son Caden.
Mr. Kong- Director of Office of Admissions at University of Cambodia. Cares deeply about education here in Cambodia and was a vital part of our research into the topic.
Jamie- Caya says picture a much less hot Brad Pitt in Fight Club wearing the orange tank top. Jamie is a 40 year old Australian with a family who came up to the region to explore alone. He hung out with Caya, Elliot, and Liza at The Pontoon.
Travis- Also from the Pontoon. Travis was a US Marine working at the Embassy.
Jo-jo- Jo-jo helped us find a fun night out and asked a ridiculous price for his tuktuk services. Yeah right Jo-jo, that was not worth $13.
Mr. Happy Tuktuk- A jolly looking rotund tuktuk driver who takes us everywhere. Sometimes he misses the entrances to places, but he always gets us to the right place in the end.
Superfriendly Royal University of Phnom Penh Student- The nicest guy at the University. Showed us around the campus and shared information not only about the school but Cambodia as well. A self described "country boy", he had a lot of big dreams. We hope he's able to make it to America to study. He wants to work in Advertising and Marketing. At the end of the afternoon he bought us Cambodian ice pops. Not potato, but banana, strawberry, and durian. Oh yeah, he has one hell of a sweet moto.


Pets We Have Had:
Mohgli- Mohgli is a lizard that Elliot caught in a bag and carried downstairs to breakfast. He worked with us on NGO work before leaving and finding his own breakfast.
Cephalo- We found this tiny kitten with a huge head outside a temple in the middle of Phnom Penh. It was literally teacup sized.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Phnom Penh Adventures Day 3: aka Where is Elliot?

Day 3

Here is Elliot's Day 3: Sick, sleep, sick. He spent the entire day in the hotel room and couldn't even make it downstairs to get a dvd or anything. Poor Elliot. :( Everyone else seemed to have a great day...

Everyone else's Day 3: We were all pretty tired so we decided to keep the day pretty easy, but Helen was getting antsy after not having done anything all morning and decided to make a trip to one of the markets we hadn't visited yet. Caya, Liza, Sean, and Sharon decided to go with her, agreeing that whatever happened we would meet back at the hotel to get lunch and then go tour the Royal Palace at 2.

The market we went to was for people who actually live in the city rather than tourists. No one tried to get our attention or attempted to get us to buy anything, it was very relaxed in the sense that it was an every-day sort of thing, but at the same time crazy busy as it was a three-story indoor market. There were rows and rows of shoes in little mannequin feet (very creepy), ailes of fabric, stalls of western-ish clothes by the hundreds, sections for school supplies, hair accessories, technology, hardware, and even a whole area filled with hairdressers. The smell, however, of the food sections with all of the fish was overwhelming and we decided to leave Helen to go back to the Russian Market. It was a bit difficult communicating to the tuktuk driver where we wanted to go but actually being at the market once we got there was great.

We met back up with Helen at the hotel and went to Friends (Mith samalanh, in Khmer) with Scott for lunch. The restaurant is part of a program working to help kids on the streets of Phnom Penh, taking care of them and helping train them for the work force. It's a sort of training project for them, working the restaurant, and is a great way for toursits to help out a little bit. The food was great and we had a sort-of class discussion on politics and the like while we ate.

From there Scott left us and we moved on to visit the Royal Palace. We'd walked past it plenty of times but had never actually gone inside. It was absolutely beautiful, with separate gates for the public, the king (called the victory gate), the dead (called the ghost gate, for the royalty when they die, leaving the palace), religious purposes, and another, now kept locked, called the killing gate that in the past was used to remove servants who did something wrong to be killed. Not all of it is available for the public to see, obviously, but we got a tour of some of the buildings, including the Silver Pagoda (called the Temple of the Emerald Buddha to Cambodians) which featured an entirely silver-tiled floor and a huge green buddha statue made out of jade and I think covered in emerald, the elephant houses (where the king's elephants were kept. Now he has a BMW. Yeah, we asked. We pretended to be filming an episode of cribs, Cambodian-style.), and the building that functions as the king'd dressing room. There were exhibits of the coronation clothes for the king and queen (absolutely gorgeous, gold-threaded robes), the outfits of the palace staff (different colors for every day of the week), and different artifacts like jewlery, buddha statues, etc. There was even a building, unfortunately under construction, that was sent over in pieces to be built by Napoleon the Third. Crazy, right? Out tour guide was telling us about the statues around some of the buildings at the spot where the walls met the roof "These statues are there to protect the building, oh and there's a monkey." Literally, there was a monkey on the scaffolding on the building right next to it. We found out later they're everywhere and they love mango.

For dinner we went to the jungle. Not really, but it felt like it. It was actually a Khmer/Thai place with the front covered in beautiful plants of all different kinds. The inside was great as well, we ended up on the balcony of the second floor, shoes left at the door, sitting on cushions on the floor overlooking the busy street below. The food was some of the best yet, including some great pad see-ew, ginger stir-fry, mint-smoothie, fish cakes, complete with Elliot attempting to join us but lying on the floor being spooned ice with a plate of rice on his chest. Oh dear.

From there we went to a DVD store next to our hotel and bought The Killing Fields (for $1,50. We plan on getting many more.) and watched it up in our room. It was sobering and intense, despite the slighty ridiculous soundtrack.

Day 2- Sunflower Orphan Centre

Today we took a ridiculously long tuktuk ride to the Sunflower Orphan Centre (SOC) for children living with HIV/AIDs. It was a productive ride, seeing as we created a student contract to govern our NGO work. We also risked Helen's iPad's life when we did a handoff to Helen in the other tuktuk while driving down the road. It was safe. We also had a Mac photoshoot to demonstrate the usefulness of Mac products in developing countries like Cambodia (see picture).

At the Orphanage: It was a little wierd at first because we didn't know how to act around the kids. Most of them were coloring or drawing pictures. The boys loved volleyball. It seemed at first that the kids were 4-12, but actually the youngest was 10 and the oldest was 16. After hanging out the with the kids for an hour or so, we ate lunch and then went to the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Reserve.

Entertainment at the orphanage was limited. The kids were happy but after learning their real ages the activities seemed juvenile. They loved coloring books and hidden picture books. They went to school for 4 hours a day (normal in Cambodia). The last trip the kids took was to Sihanoukville to the beach months ago, and they all dressed up in their nicest clothes to go to the Wildlife Reserve. The girls even did their hair using the reflection in the windows because there were no big mirrors at the center.

At lunch the children immediately started to help sweep the floor set out plates and clean up. They eat in pods of 3 or 4 children and share a bowl of stew (a few vegetables and occasionally meat) to go along with a personal plate of rice. They eat rice for every meal. Although the orphanage used to be funded, they haven't been funded since 2007. All the staff volunteer their time and energy to help these kids.

So after an hour long van ride we arrived at the zoo. (15 kilometers was actually 50, and did we mention how hot it was). We fit 22 people in a 15 passenger van, ditching Helen and Scott. The wildlife preserve had lions, and tigers, and sunbears, OH MY! Also Elephants, and Howler Monkeys which attempted to steal Caya's camera. Also, the monkeys made awesome noises. (see video). Sean was the first to venture up the tallest level of the rocky outcrop at the zoo. It was kind of a mountain for cambodia (hill sized). Elliot followed him and then came Caya with Scott's camera. The three of them were amazed by the view and took lots of pictures. We could see for miles! After the zoo, we had drinks, Mirinda and pink/purple fanta. Maybe dragonfruit fanta. Mixed, they created a disgustinly sugary concoction. Elliot loved them, Caya did not but we all appreciated a cold drink.

We really developed a connection with these kids. Vibol is a 13 year old boy who had the coolest trucker hat and was a top notch class clown. He loved to smile and poke fun in a good way. He led the rest of the children and Liza up some rocks and up a mountain in the zoo. He also tried to poke Elliot's eyebrow piercing all the time. Pisat is the smallest kid. He's only 10. He craved physical contact and attention as did most of the others. He especially like sleeping in Caya's lap, climbing up and over us, and trying on our sunglasses. He loved taking pictures with our camera. Srey Leak (pronounced Sraylia). Srey Leak is 16, painted Helen, Liza, and Caya's nails and taught Caya how to make lotus blossom origami flowers. Caya found a special friend with the oldest girl, who was 16, and the biggest of the kids. They were always walking around with their arms around each other. (see picture). They all loved to hold our hands and just hang out. Sharon got a boyfriend (who loved to eat cotton candy and wore a Yao Ming shirt). Even though we were only with them for a day, by the end of our trip, it was hard to say goodbye. We learned so much from these kids, and on the final bus ride it was hard to imagine they couldn't speak English. We will really have a special place in our hearts for all these kids.

www.sunflowerorphanage.org

Phnom Penh- Adventures Day 1

On our first day here we explored some of the many markets in Phnom Penh. Our first venture was to the Russian Market (Which is called something else, but you can eventually communicate the Russian market to the tuktuk drivers).

Russian Market: The market had an excellent food section, picture a food court but street vendor stalls, and very crowded, and add sweat and 50 degrees. We were at the food section and were suddenly accosted by a nun, who was selling blessings. And by selling we mean she gave them to us, and then demanded $3. Which wouldn't have been hard to understand except she didn't speak English and we couldn't understand her. After several moments of utter confusion, we finally paid her off and are now blessed. (Except Sean and Liza). There were a lot of scarves, fabrics, souvenirs, incense burners and pipes, purses, meat meat meat, dried fish, cooked fish living fish, fish on sticks. How many fish, can you wish? One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish, disgustingly smelly fish. Fish heads, fish guts, shrimp paste, dried shrimp, little shrimp, big shrimp. Too much shrimp.

After the Russian Market Elliot and Sharon visited the Doctor. Doctor Who? Doctor Fish! (Oh no, more fish...) No, Dr. Fish was great! Sharon and Elliot put their feet in a tank of water and all these little fish ate their dead skin. It tickled unbearably, but was so relaxing. We will do it again! Everyone else drank and ate coconuts.

Tuktuk ride... Across the Japanese Friendship Bridge to see the 'real' Phnom Penh. Real World Phnom Penh was dominated by KTV bars. The best (hint: only) form of entertainment for locals. KTV is Video kareoke, or Videoke. It may be too confusing for non-Khmer speakers, but... WE WILL TRY! There was a cool wat that we passed and doubled back for. It was a newer one, and covered in gold paint. The inside was painted with stories of the Buddha and featured many different statues of the Buddha. There was a live (Liza thinks it was fake, but it was really real)tree incorporated into the temple. She's protesting but it was in a hole cut out of the floor and was set in dirt soooo, whatever. Granted it was painted gold and had rhinestones on/in it. Elliot and Sean were lucky enough to get a picture with a super friendly monk. BFFs!

Tuktuk ride... back to the main section of town. We ate vietnamese for lunch. The food came out one dish at a time because it was a family owned one cook restaurant. Helen finished and ordered seconds before Elliot got his food. Anyways, food was amazing. We tried salted kumquat soda and a bunch of good dishes. Beef bohn?

WALKING :( to the Central Market. We almost lost Elliot and Sharon after they were duped into buying very expensive ($8US/2 scarves) scarves. We are still adjusting to not having cell phones. It's difficult to keep track of everyone, but we have created a system of keeping track of everyone. Do you want to buy expensive American clothes for cheap? Come here! They make so many brand name clothes and purses and shoes in fake feet here in Cambodia and surrounding S.E Asian countries. Cambodian people have easy access to these at little expense and sell them everywhere!

Things we are used to after day 1:
1. Pajamas are for everyday, every occasion wear. No exceptions
2. Little gender differences in clothing. Guys in tight jeans, DG belts, Gucci shoes are normal.
3. Lizards in your room/restaurants/tuktuks, etc
4. Constant sweat and unbearable heat
5. Monks with umbrellas riding motos
6. Non-american tourists (Australian, German, French, British)
7. Being a giant
8. Traffic and crossing the street (The Deadly Game) We feel like Frogger
9. Drinking lots and lots of water
10. Temples are as common as churches in Charleston

We love it here!
ps. It's hot.

Phnom Penh- First Impressions

Welcome to King Norodom Sihamoni's Birthday Extravaganza Weekend!

The city was definately alive. People were everywhere, dancing in the street and children were rampant. We were stared at a lot. Sidewalks were huge and dominated by street vendors, parked cars, houses, spirit houses, and stray animals. Traffic rules are virtually non-existent, the most aggressive vehicle is king of the road.

We discovered some tasty new treats including cafe au lait, rambutan, mangostein, locus seeds, and coconut drinks.

Hotel Anise: This is our guest house (hotel), which is centrally located in the city. It's hot. Unbelievably hot. Really, really hot. The rooms are comfortable if you put the airconditioner on powerful supersonic and keep water bottles in the freezer. Mattresses are just like sleeping on the floor, but we are unbelievably lucky to sleep here, because many people sleep in the back of their tuktuk.

What's a tuktuk? Oh, glad you asked. It's a motorcycle with a carriage in the back. It's super fun because you can squish up to 7 people (We haven't tried any more... yet) and it has no walls- great air conditioning. The other option of travel is a moto, which can carry whole families, or just a monk. Some people own cars with brand names on the side. LEXUS, LANDROVER, etc.

BTW, it's HOT.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Singapore Airlines

A little out of order... but so much better than DELTA and American Airlines
We have spent over 20 hours on this airline.

HIGHLIGHTS:
1) "Does this breakfast cost anything?" "No, everything's free."
2) Matching ethnic stewardess outfits
3) Landing breakfast, and taking off breakfast
4) Any free entertainment, ie. GLEE Season 1, Princess and the Frog, Skins Season 3, Invictus, The Last Station, It's Complicated, Chinese Pop Music,
5) FREE YELLOW SOCKS, headphones, blankets, toothbrush, toothpaste
6) Warm face towels every three hours
7) Drinks whenever you want
8) Aftershave, mouthwash, lotion in the bathrooms
9) Business Class was like living in a palace
10) Most friendly service in the world

CHANGi Singapore Airport

Liza: The GREATEST place I've ever been!
Elliot: I wish I lived here!
Caya: We have arrived at Paradise!
Sean: Hang on, let me get a picture!
Sharon: I have had the hiccups for the last 20 minutes.

HIGHLIGHTS:
1. SkyTrain + Outside Scenery
2. 3 Koi Ponds, Butterfly, Sunflower, and Orchid garden at CHANGi Singapore Airport
3. Free Internet, Free charging, etc. free movie theaters
4. The Ambassadors' Suite Delux
5. Showers
6. Rubbing Coloring
7. Automatic waterfountains
8. Slow-motion atmosphere
9. Game Room, Jam room
10. Basically anything you have ever wanted, it resides at CHANGi Singapore Airport